We went to three more cenotes today and they have turned out to be one of my most favorite things in the world. I've been in a couple of other caves in the US, but there is nothing like swimming in the crystal clear blue water of a cenote. The ones we visited today were in Cuzuma which is about an hour and a half out of Merida. It's a really rural town that seemed no different than any other. When we got there, we ate lunch (sandwiches we got from Wal-Mart that morning, and Christina and I shared ours with some local stray dogs and one cat and a few roosters. The dogs were incredibly sweet. In fact, the stray dogs we have seen everywhere we have gone have made a huge impact on me. It is incredible how many there are; especially in the towns we went through today.
Anyways back to the story...
So we ate lunch and then we got on what can only be described as the most rickety mode of transportation on which I have ever ridden. (If anyone reading this blog ever played Donkey Kong, its similar to the level called Mine Cart Carnage.) The old tracks that were once used to transport henequen* from the fields to the factories have been transformed into a mini train system that is made up of several individual carts pulled by horses.
Our horse was named Catalina. The other group had Diego who had some sort of neurological disorder (in my opinion) and kept doing this weird thing with his lips...ANYWAYS..
After riding the cart for a few minutes, we got to the first cenote. There were lots of birds, and it was probably the largest of the three we visited. It had beautiful rock formations. The water was so nice, but as usual, Murphy spent the whole time jumping and attempting to mimic an atomic bomb.
Another few minutes on the Catalina Express and we came to my favorite cenote of the day. Although there was a lot of graffiti on the walls and some mysterious baggies tucked into some nooks, the water was so clear and beautiful, you could all the way to the bottom, about 20 to 25 feet down. There were beautiful roots hanging through the "ceiling" and we noticed a couple fish. No one can seem to figure out how the fish get in there, so they much be magical or something.
The third cenote was quite intimidating upon arrival. The entrance was merely a ladder that had been built into a hole that that led down into the darkness of the cenote below. It makes me think of how it was discovered and how amazing it must have been to stumble upon this marvel of an underground waterhole. Once our eyes adjusted to the light, we swam for a good bit, and there was even a spot in the middle of the water where the rock from the roof had made a place to stand. Then Clay turned into a crazy cenote monster/Gollum and started climbing the walls and jumping off. Murphy and Tim attempted it...
The ride back on the rail was not so unpleasant. Although we were worn out and hungry from all the swimming, the splendid afternoon left us more than satisfied. The day was not over however. When we got back to the main road where the van was parked, we stopped to get our stuff from the van and I said hello to my new stray puppy friends. (I know I am a loser.) Christina bought a pretty embroidered handkerchief thing from the woman who lived nearby and who I suppose owned the chickens. Then she started talking to us in Spanish and because the rest of the group had walked off to get snacks or something, we were stranded in a rather awkward situation (once again).
We finally got back onto the bus and rode on to some ruins of old henequen-processing factories. It's really incredible what you can discover if you just take the time to stop and look a little closer. We walked through one of the buildings to find beautiful roots climbing the walls and hanging from the ceiling. Even the old machinery had a certain charm to it. That may just be the new "artist's eye" I am developing. When we walked through one of the other buildings, I came out onto a porch and noticed a huge, beautiful bull standing under a tree, so of course I stopped to say hello.
He seemed friendly and I did touch his head, but I didn't want to disturb him too much so I went back to the van; plus it was time to go anyways. We got on our way again (sort of) and turned around a couple of times... Then it started to rain, which was really cool. I know it's only been a week, but after this heat, the rain made a world of difference.
We got back and showered and made ourselves presentable and went to dinner and the Art Clan went to dinner at Smoking Club No. 1. There was no smoking and I'm pretty sure there is not Smoking Club No. 2, but for about five American dollars, I got pancakes, a fruit plate, and a bottle of water.
Then we braved the walk back in the rain and flooded streets.
Merida is so awesome.
Hasta la Vista, Guays.
-Al.B.
*henequen:: a strong yellowish or reddish hard fiber obtained from the leaves of a tropical American agave (Agave fourcroydes) found chiefly in Yucatán and used especially in making twine and rope; also : a plant that yields henequen
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